Beauty is a universal truth. However, pros quickly learn that designing a perfect permanent makeup look for a client is more nuanced than symmetric mapping and crisp lines. Aside from the diverse facial features between various races, PMU artists must also understand differences in beauty standards and stylistic preferences in various ethnic groups.
Every perfect PMU session starts out with an in-depth conversation between the client and artist during the consultation. A good artist will be perceptive to the client’s natural facial features as well as the client’s personal style. Although it is important to follow the natural proportions of the facial features, this still leaves a lot of room for stylistic decisions such as: brow pattern, machine technique, art style (i.e. wispy, ombré), color, and more. During a brow PMU consultation, some important questions to ask are the following:
“How do you typically style your brows; pencil, pomade, gel?
“Do you prefer crisp edges or messy brows?”
“Do you like the look of brow makeup or do you prefer a natural look?”
“Are you satisfied with the current shape of your brows, or would you rather see a more lifted/squared/rounded brow shape?”
Stylistic choices will come after the universal standards of beauty are followed. Symmetry, color matching, and blending are all important core standards to follow in every session. Artists must map according to the client’s anatomy, correcting for symmetry along the way as needed. Colors are blended to match the client’s skintone, undertones, and hair color. The client’s natural brow growth, eye shape, face shape, and natural pigmentation will also factor into what styles are flattering choices to blend in with these features. These universal standards must be considered before proceeding to stylistic and artistic choices.
Western beauty standards are heavily influenced by Hollywood, instagram models, and American musicians. Key traits that stand out in Western beauty are bold, defined, and pronounced features. Style icons of various races include Megan Fox, Salma Hayek, Jennifer Lopez, Shay Mitchell, and Kim Kardashian. Natural features are exaggerated by contouring and creating high contrast moments with bold colors and clean lines. Brows are bold. Lips are defined. Bone structures are chiseled. In Western beauty, beauty products and techniques aim to make each feature a little bigger for a more dominant presence on the face. These beauty trends pair perfectly with the larger-than-life personalities of the stars in Western media. Men and women prefer a mature and glamorous approach to makeup, even in natural makeup and PMU.
Eastern Asia is home to pop culture sensations and pervasive beauty standards that influence millions of men and women internationally. Eastern beauty standards prioritize youth above all. Features that are important in Eastern beauty are bright eyes, clean skin, and soft colors across the face. Bold makeup trends give way to gentle and delicate “barely-there” looks. Hyperrealism is extremely popular in Asian PMU because the results, as transformative as they are, will still blend perfectly with natural features.
When working with clients that prefer the look of Eastern beauty, softness is key. It is important to choose colors and techniques that will ensure a seamless blend of the permanent makeup into the client’s natural features. Popular PMU trends in Eastern Asia feature blurred edges, gentle shapes, and subtle colors. Many people of Asian descent have less prominent features that are complemented by softer shapes in PMU. Eyebrows are typically more squared and less arched in Asia. Lipstick trends often feature a soft blurred edge that melts into the skin; this trend transitions into the airy lip blush technique in permanent makeup. RealTint® VEGA is a versatile device that can deliver razor-thin lines for delicate brow and liner work, as well as gentle shading that can be accomplished in layers without damaging the client’s skin.
Understanding both Eastern and Western beauty trends and standards are important when working with diverse groups of clients. Though natural features are predominantly determined by race and many stylistic choices are influenced by the individual’s ethnic background, makeup trends and styles are not exclusive to specific cultures. Makeup trends that are popular in Eastern Asia can be adopted by Western clients, and vice versa. Ultimately, the artist and client will collaborate to determine the most flattering PMU look for the individual based on both the client’s natural features and their own stylistic preferences. The more techniques the artist can master and the more knowledge the artist has, the better equipped they will be to create beautiful looks for a wide range of clients from various backgrounds.
